Chef Jody Adams' reopened Rialto is still good as it was when it began over a decade ago. Is it going to knock your socks off? Probably not, especially if you've actually been to Italy, but dishes such as a red wine risotto with radicchio and fresh figs, a squid stew with grilled white polenta, clams, and shrimp and seared scallops with potato cake, hazelnuts and cider cream make for a tasty menu. It's the kind of spot you bring your visiting family, or a date you're serious about, or superb for an expense account traveller (though it isn't that bad, with many entrees in the 30s.) Adventurous it isn't, but this is Boston after all and Adams keeps it interesting by changing around the menu for regions of Italy she's exploring.

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