The Delaunay (pronounced Delaney) is the latest offering from The Wolseley and really is very good. If it's sceney and the food wasn't good, we would tell you, in that ever subtle way of ours. But this isn't one of those spots. In particular the schnitzels are great. We like them with a side of the Chantenay carrots in ginger and a side of pickled cucumber. And the lamb is also delicious though we'd give the recommended accompaniment of brussel sprouts a miss. But having raved about the food, which, as we've said, delicious, you get the feeling that they are having a bit of a laugh at your expense. Is it necessary to say 'goujons of plaice' when one can say 'fish fingers' or 'braised bath chaps' when one can say 'cured pig's cheeks', probably not. So a menu of mystery words, as many as they could cram in there (even us in the food business could find a couple we didn't know) seems to be the thing to navigate. Then there's also the reservations to navigate. If you're a friend of the house, magically space appears, and be sure your table in the dining room will reflect it. For amusement, watch the front desk staff stress over someone they weren't sure they recognised...however to do so, would involve sitting in the front cafe kept for walk-ins (though it has its own list)...and to those who work here, that might as well be Siberia.

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