We rather like All'Angelo for actually being about food rather than celebrities. Though at prices like these, everyone had better be a celebrity (at least with their bank manager), the eats are worth it. Polenta, veal with white wine sauce, fritto misto, owners Stefano Ongaro and Mirko Paderno (ex Il Grano and Valentino, the Santa Monica restaurant not the fashion house) do it the right way. Or at least what they see as the Venetian, Sardinian, Sicilian and Piedmontese ways. Though the cooking is all over the Italian map, and includes not so traditional selections such as Maine Lobster salad with wild fennel, roast quail, and pumpkin cod fish soup, it's all worth having.

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