Those who wish they'd never left the womb will love Suba. Originally supposed to be the much hyped Hydra, the tri-level restaurant has a suspended steel staircase dangling over a shallow pool, a grotto room "configured to encourage flirtatious eye contact", and a two foot deep moat. If you can take your eyes away long enough to focus on the eclectic Spanish- Latin menu, it includes such tasty, unusual bits as crisped sardines with watermelon, salmon green apple and ginger carpaccio, and roasted lobster served on port- glazed shredded duck empanadas. Suba owners Yann and Phillip tell us that they have a strictly enforced "vibrate only" cell phone policy; we're not sure if that prohibition extends to clientele wadding in their watery surroundings, but we figure that no matter how raucuous it gets, Suba could never be as badly behaved as the bodega that was in this location before. Which made way for Suba after they were busted by the DEA for dealing drugs!

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