Buddakan in Philadelphia is in prime territory. With the spots around it and on the neighbouring streets not nearly as elegant as the "New Asian" inspired restaurant lounge, the fusion spot packs them in every night. And though Stephen Starr seems to own (at least) every other restaurant in Philly (Jones, Tangerine, Pod, Alma de Cuba, Striped Bass...), this is New York. And the competition here is stiff. And the bloom is off the rose that is Asian fusion. Will Buddakan suffer the fate of Spice Market? A beautiful room, this one by Christian Liagre, a hot clientele, only to get roasted on the quality of the food? 260 seats, with Michael Schulson and Angelo Sosa (from Spice Market) at the helm as Exec Chef and Chef, respectively. Is it even possible for the meals to live up to the well-apointed decor of Renaissance Bacchanal paintings, Buddha icons and Louis XIV curiosity cabinets, or perhaps this will be a place just to exhibit how young and beautiful you are framed in the porcelain vase- shaped doorways. After all, who needs to eat anyway?

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