Delightful and cozy (for a big room), Irving Mill has hit its stride as though it has been open for years and what foodie doesn't love that? After completely gutting and changing the space that was once Candela (to save you racking your brain, thinking 'what did this used to be'), the new bifurcated space, separated by a wooden sideboard and large plant, has a welcoming bar and sink- into- them booths done in celadon and farmwood accents. Dates and large parties dig into dishes which change daily such as baby beets and romaine hearts (served with pickled organic boiled egg and garbanzo beans); grilled pork chop, sometimes served with roasted spaetzle, red cabbage and mustard seed, other times with collard greens and cranberry beans; and New Zealand cockles stew with chorizo and roasted tomatoes. (Don't get too attached to dishes as they adjust to what they can find in the green markets.) The kitchen is flexible and nearly every dish is scrumptious, that is, comforting without being boring. Most wines by the glass are reasonably priced, many coming in at about $12, and nicely paired, especially with exec chef John Schaefer's tasting menu.

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