Oh that all NY Italian restaurants were more like this little two room wonder, from chef/partner Ricardo Buitoni and Aurora owners Gaspare Villa, Elena Fabiani. A slice of Rome in Manhattan, the front room is warm with its hand- painted wallpaper, purposefully decayed ceiling tiles, rustic wood fixtures, rope-bound poles and shelves of wine bottles and dried salumis including a cozy bar area for those who like the farmhouse feel. The back room is not only private but is a spectacular glass atrium; a bit like dining in your own greenhouse. All this would be irrelevant though were it not for the fabulous food. Start with stuzzichini (we like the crostino of gorgonzola truffled honey and pear best) or baked shrimp with Calabrian hot peppers; move on to oysters, salumi and formaggi. Have one of their pizzas baked on the spot with toppings such as San Marzano, spicy sopressata, Proscuitto di Parma and buffalo mozzarella. Or one of their home- made organic egg pastas such as the paccheri, with eggplant, grape tomatoes, pesto, and mozzarella or hand-rolled orecchiette with shrimp, roasted cauliflower, and bottarga. Don't miss the garganelli of ground pork with trumpet mushrooms. Lastly due to the restaurant's proximity to a local church, hard liquor is banned from Emporio’s cocktails. The result? Really inventive wine-based drinks such as the Watermelon Martini, a delicious combination of the Korean wine soju and watermelon puree. Arrive early for aperitivo or late for spuntino (till 2 am.)

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