Pó is often described as an Italian restaurant but we think it's more a particular genre defined by the 90s that we'd call New Italian-American. Made popular by Mario Batali, the chef whose food epitomises this archetype, Po' continues to be helmed by Steven Crane now with Exec Chef Lee McGrath. In this comfortable room with its vintage tin ceiling and simple decor of white table cloths and mirrors, they continue to turn out pleasing dishes such as their cucumber salad (in Scapece, red onion and capers with ricotta salata); a rich pappardelle pasta with sweet corn and chorizo sauce; their classic spinach tagliatelle with ragu Bolognese; a black fettucine with fresh mussels mostly characterised by the sweet thick tomato sauce; and their signature guinea hen, completely boneless, over a roasted corn compote. If you're after traditional Milanese risotto or the ingredient- focused New Italian popping up all over NY, the salt and butter in some of the sauces here may not be what you're after. But if you want to impress a date or for that perfect place to take your parents, Pó, with its perfect service, generous portions and well- oiled kitchen hits the nail on the head.

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