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The Pan American 202 Mott Street 212 925 9225 Really creative Latin- inspired comfort food is what's happening in this Miami- coloured bar/ restaurant from Fernando Riquelme and Frank Rossi (both from Agua Dulce and Rosa Mexicana) and chef Saul Flores. A "black and white" soup is half black turtle bean and half white northern bean with pico de gallo and crema fresca presented in a yin yang symbol. The arroz con pollo frito is half classic chorizo rice and the other half deliciously done fried chicken. Fresh guacamole with lumps of perfect avocado makes you wonder where they found such amazing fruit off- season and comes with muddled jalapenos. Even the melt- in- your- mouth scalloped root vegetables that come with the Tomahawk 2 lb rib- eye is unusual, served wafer thin and are vegetables you might not otherwise find on a menu such as rutabaga and yellow beets. Cocktails are no less creative; at the bar, Allen Katz creates drinks such as the Knewton’s Apple, made with bourbon, elderflower, apples, and lime juice; the Opium, a blend of tequila, triple Sec, lemon juice and grapefruit bitters, that goes down dangerously easily and our favourite, the Ideal Martini, an apple and jalapeno concoction.Diners will also like that this kitchen can not only omit the shrimp or chorizo to make a more vegetarian-friendly dish, but that much of the menu is gluten-free (including a mac n cheese!) - opening up Latin (and American classics) to an audience once overlooked. Engaging, entertaining and surprising, the menu challenges expectations while never straying into weird. |
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