Located just below Grove Street, Eighty-Four on Seventh Avenue is a beautiful corner room, with a cozy bar under the rule of young entrepreneur Natalie Maroufi who has cleverly brought on board chef Aaron Fitterman (Public) and the menu shows it. A seared diver scallop starter is mixed with radicchio, Campari butter and grapefruit salsa for a subtle combination of sweet and bitter at once. For the adventurous, there's crispy sweetbreads with spinach, oyster mushrooms and a bacon dressing. For the less so, a grilled asparagus over artichokes satisfies. His trout starter could even make a fan of those who don't like fish, with a delicious fresh horseradish and just the smallest hint of smokiness. The mains are no less interesting. A sliced pork loin has poppy seed spaetzle. Fennel gnocchi is served with pickled chanterelles, mint, pistachio pesto and ricotta. Chicken is done beer-brined with a Vermouth jus. Essentially unusual food is made comforting here. Even the drinks are clever. Titled such cute monikers as Elizabeth Taylor's Diamonds and Speedy Gonzales (a fabulous spicy cinnamon coffee cocktail), they lack the whole 'mixology' pretension while being fun. It's worth noting that this spot is still finding its footing, and much like a toddler, does experience some growing pains that come with the pressure of competing in the NY food world. Give it a chance though, as we think that you'll be seeing a lot more of Fitterman as his star continues to rise.

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