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The Dutch 131 Sullivan Street 212 677 6200 Evidently Wall Street is trying to take over The Dutch. No, not The Netherlands, just this restaurant (in the old Cub Room space) from Andrew Carmellini, Josh Pickard and Luke Ostrom. And taken over it, they have. The result is two incredibly loud rooms -- we used our cocktail napkins to make concert-style makeshift earplugs and still couldn't handle it (really) -- of untucked white shirted banker types waiting two hours to scarf oysters, rabbit potpie and scallops. In fact, it reminded us a bit of what the stock exchange floor looked like circa 1985. The result is a harrowed and overwhelmed staff - what we in the industry call 'in the weeds' - who don't know how to handle the chaos, scrum and fuss that ensues. Be prepared to be barked at. In typical Carmellini style, this kitchen is dairy- happy (a word to the wise for the truly intolerant, they'll say it has no butter or cream and don't you believe it) so we won't be back but if that's your thing, you'll love the seafood here, and the rowdiness it comes with. Just don't expect the "mix of cultural influences" promised in The Dutch's pitch. |
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