If you don't like gentrification, you will hate this restaurant in the lobby of the Nolitan Hotel. The decidely sanitised space (which has the feel of the lobby of a museum but without the, erm, art) serves up quite plain "seasonal American" food and Musak- versions of Let's Get It On mixed with the occasional U2 to an equally generic crowd that looks like it's just killing time till they can get away to their Hamptons sharehouse of 20. Corners have been cut all over, what with a terrible New Mexican sparkling substituting for prosecco, and even a summer rose, is terribly cheap and bitter. Decor appears to be mass- purchased books. The look of the hotel lobby is distinctly Hotel on Rivington, but minus the amazing downstairs nightspot, and since a plethora of options teeming with either authenticity or downright cool exist so close, we're dubious on the future of this spot.

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