restaurants
Louro
142 West 10th Street
212 206 0606

Unlike other restaurants, it would actually be a bit tough to give you the menu for chef David Santos's cooking. Rather, people flock to the Per Se and Bouley alum's West Village spot for his constant inventions. Anything that can be made in- house is, and that has included cheese, butter, goose pancetta, chorizo, kimchi, vinegars and soy sauce, to name just a few things. On any given day, the kitchen is full of Santos' vats of "projects" such as the "Portuguese kimchi" he's currently fermenting. Brussels sprouts, garlic, peppers, spring onions, piri piri peppers for a minimum of 2 weeks. Or perhaps the vinegars, such as Meyer lemon, Thai chili, toasted nori and tomato. Diners might find random things such as foraged pine needles in ice cream or a whiskey cheddar sauce on potatos or peperoncini on hazelnuts. That said, there's some dishes diners come back for such as an octopus Bolognese tagliatelle made with the aforementioned goose pancetta, or truffled pork and clams using the head of the pig as the pork component or the scallop crudo with sea buckthorn plant, sliced green almonds and amaranth leaves. New additions to try out include a duck tartare with oysters and Thai curry or the Broccoli in Textures done tempura, a la plancha, raw and pureed, served with wild strawberry guava and watercress. Just don't hold us (or them) to a fixed expectation, and you'll find yourself pleasantly surprised. A recent dinner series mixes up pop culture, movie themes and round-the-world cooking, with all the weirdness you're hoping for. Call and see what's on offer. Or just make a booking and let him take you on a journey.

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