restaurants
Kingside
124 West 57th Street
Viceroy New York
212 707 8000

Chef Marc Murphy and the Gerber Group's fine 136-seat spot Kingside is full every night since its opening, and this might be partly because the sleek and warm operation shows no hiccups. A mixture of French, Italian and American food, heavy on the seafood elements, dot the choices on this menu. East Coast oysters come with unusual jalapeno and beet mignonettes and a red snapper crudo (one of three kinds of crudos) is done with citrus salt, quinoa and fennel pollen (still not entirely sure what that is, though delicious). Classics are reinvented, such as a Caesar with charred escarole and anchovy panini. There is something for everyone on the starters which vary from snails in a bone marrow garlic butter to a grilled kale, goat cheese, toasted almond, lemony salad. Meaty folk will like that there's foie gras and veal, and vege folk will like that there's crisp artichokes and a vegetable crudite. The mains are equally varied, with everything from a two-person cowboy rib eye to the simple home-made chitarra pasta with basil and smokey tomato paste. When we went, every table was spoken for, even the back bar where diners can face the open kitchen, and this might be because flexibility and service is the name of the game here. Wine is available by the quartino, half and full bottle. And there was nary an unhappy person in the wood and zinc room with its black and white checkerboard floor. Naturally since attached to the Viceroy, they do breakfast (from 7am), lunch, and brunch on the weekends.

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